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WORK TITLE: Dinner at the Long Table
WORK NOTES: with Andrew Tarlow
PSEUDONYM(S):
BIRTHDATE:
WEBSITE: http://www.glowinglikeagaslamp.com/
CITY: Brooklyn
STATE: NY
COUNTRY:
NATIONALITY: American
http://www.dinneratthelongtable.com/new-page/ * http://www.glowinglikeagaslamp.com/about/
RESEARCHER NOTES:
PERSONAL
Born in MA.
ADDRESS
CAREER
Editor and writer. Works as freelance editor; editor in chief, Diner Journal, 2006–.
AVOCATIONS:Bruce Springsteen, rescue pups, mezcal, and Murder She Wrote.
WRITINGS
SIDELIGHTS
Anna Dunn is a journalist who serves as editor in chief of restaurateur Andrew Tarlow’s food magazine Diner Journal. She is also the coauthor, with Tarlow, of Dinner at the Long Table, a book that is part memoir and part celebration of the ways of preparing and honoring local food and dining that have helped revolutionize Brooklyn, New York, and turn the borough into a destination for foodies from around the world.
Tarlow opened his first Brooklyn restaurant, Diner, in 1999. Dinner at the Long Table, stated Susan H. Gordon in Signature, in part quoting from Tarlow, “celebrates the passion of those early days (for ‘our beloved customers who have supported us since the time when we served mashed potatoes with every entree at the Diner’)–thoughtfully mixed with the wisdom gained by a success done right–with recipes for dishes that do not appear in any of his restaurants. … After the intro come the recipes, encouraging guides into flavor combinations that once read here suddenly seem obvious: Beets Roasted Until the End of Time … Bluefish with an Almond-Based Sauce; and Sourdough Pancakes with Cheddar and Apple (inspired by Moby Dick).”
Critics enjoyed the book’s peek into the lives and meals of one of the great restaurateurs of the twenty-first century. “Never has a cookbook felt more like a literary journal than in this debut effort by the publisher-restaurateurs,” enthused a Publishers Weekly reviewer. “In Dinner at the Long Table,” stated an Eat Your Books reviewer, “rambling poetry-like prose, story-telling and delicious food gather together and produce a book that will blow your cookbook-loving minds.” “Personal and accessible, Dinner at the Long Table brings Tarlow’s keen eye for combining design and taste to a collection of seventeen expansive, inspiring and surprising menus–perfect to celebrate birthdays, mark the coming and going of seasons, or usher in a new year,” declared a contributor to Eat Drink Films. The contributor added, “It’s food that puts romance and exuberance into eating and cooking, and that recognizes the beauty in the preparation of a meal. It’s earnest, bohemian, honest, playful and always bursting with flavor. In short, the food you most want to eat. … Dinner at the Long Table is an invitation into the generous, radiant world that Andrew has created, full of delicious and direct food, friends old and new–and a celebration of a messy, beautiful and rich life.” Dunn and Tarlow “deliver a year’s worth of menus in this title that range from the simple, yet stunning” to the “elaborate,” the Eat Your Books reviewer concluded. “This cookbook is fun, elegant, quirky, sophisticated and simply beautiful.”
BIOCRIT
PERIODICALS
Publishers Weekly, July 18, 2016, review of Dinner at the Long Table, p. 205.
ONLINE
Dinner at the Long Table Web site, http://www.dinneratthelongtable.com/ (May 3, 2017), author profile.
Eat Drink Films, https://eatdrinkfilms.com/ (October 5, 2016), review of Dinner at the Long Table.
Eat Your Books, https://www.eatyourbooks.com/ (October 2, 2016), review of Dinner at the Long Table.
Glowing like a Gas Lamp, http://www.glowinglikeagaslamp.com/ (May 3, 2017), author home page.
Signature, http://www.signature-reads.com/ (September 29, 2016), Susan H. Gordon, “Brooklyn’s Andrew Tarlow on Cooking and Eating Local.”
Anna Dunn is a freelance editor, as well as a food and crime fiction writer. She was born in Western Massachusetts and greatly appreciates Bruce Springsteen, rescue pups, mezcal, and Murder She Wrote. Early on her mother threw the television out when Anna let it slip that she aspired to be Magnum P.I. when she grew up. Ever since Anna has lead a successful career in cracking crimes of the imagination. She is the co-author of two cookbooks, Dinner at the Long Table and Saltie: A cookbook as well as Editor In Chief of Diner Journal, an independent food, art and literature magazine which she has edited since its inception in 2006. Most nights you can find her mixing cocktails at Roman's in Fort Greene, Brooklyn or tucked away above Marlow & Sons, collecting recipes and art work for a forthcoming issue. For at least twenty minutes every day she is hard at work on her first crime fiction novel and/or concentrating on her breathing.
For queries email drunknsailor@gmail.com
Anna Dunn is an editor, food and crime fiction writer, and Bartender-at-Large. She was born in Western Massachusetts, loves Bruce Springsteen, rescue pups, mezcal, and Murder She Wrote. Her mother threw the television away when Anna let it slip that she aspired to be Magnum P.I. when she grew up. Ever since Anna has lead a successful career in cracking crimes of the imagination. You can find her mixing cocktails at Roman's in Fort Greene, Brooklyn or tucked away above Marlow & Sons, collecting recipes and art work for a forthcoming issue of Diner Journal, an independent food, art and literature magazine which she has edited since its inception in 2006.
ANNA DUNN, Author
Anna Dunn is the Editor-In-Chief of Diner Journal since its inception, and a bartender at Diner, Achilles Heel, and Roman’s for almost as long. She co-authored the Saltie cookbook and is hard at work, while hardly working, on her first crime fiction novel. GLOWINGLIKEAGASLAMP.COM
Dinner at the Long Table
263.29 (July 18, 2016): p205.
Copyright: COPYRIGHT 2016 PWxyz, LLC
http://www.publishersweekly.com/
* Dinner at the Long Table
Andrew Tarlow and Anna Dunn. Ten Speed, $40 (336p) ISBN 978-1-60774-846-5
[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]
With nine outer-borough eateries and shops in his portfolio, Tarlow, more than anyone, has been responsible for defining Brooklyn's artisanal food scene. But perhaps a more pertinent credit on his resume is that, along with Dunn, he runs the arty food magazine Diner Journal. For never has a cookbook felt more like a literary journal than in this debut effort by the publisher-restaurateurs. Tarlow and Dunn begin with a 10-page poem and photo work entitled "Eat Sunshine" ("bathe in olive oil/take care of strangers"). Next, there are recipes and instructions for creating 17 different feasts or informal dinners. As in a collection of short stories, each piece has a gripping title ("The Tomato and the Sea," "A Clam for Twelve"), poetic turns, and romantic notions. The "Ragu at the End of Winter" is a three-day affair beginning with a Friday trip to the butcher, a Saturday of browning and simmering, then a Sunday noon pasta course followed by a platter of veal shanks, coppa, ribs, meatballs, sausages and oxtail. A wedding anniversary dinner begins with bouillabaisse condensed to three little words--"Stock. Nuance. Scum."--and joined by a saffron rouille, olive tapenade, a plate of squid and "fruit as an illusion," small bowls of poached pears. Photographs, by the Canadian duo Michael Graydon and Nikole Herriott, are not so much instructional as atmospheric. Are we in Williamsburg or Toronto, Marseilles or Rome? This long table has a leg in each. (Sept.)
Source Citation (MLA 8th Edition)
"Dinner at the Long Table." Publishers Weekly, 18 July 2016, p. 205. General OneFile, go.galegroup.com/ps/i.do?p=ITOF&sw=w&u=schlager&v=2.1&id=GALE%7CA459287584&it=r&asid=29e4c7c0705edf30bddb0bfd155c6e42. Accessed 26 Mar. 2017.
Gale Document Number: GALE|A459287584
DINNER AT THE LONG TABLE
Recipes from the new book by Andrew Tarlow and Anna Dunn
dinner-at-the-long-table-final-cover-to-printer-1-jpg
Andrew Tarlow has grown a restaurant empire on the simple idea that a meal can somehow be beautiful and ambitious, while also being unfussy and inviting. From the acclaimed owner of Brooklyn’s Diner, Marlow & Sons, Marlow & Daughters, Reynard, The Ides, Achilles Heel, She Wolf Bakery, Marlow Goods, Roman’s, and the Wythe Hotel comes this debut cookbook capturing a year’s worth of dishes meant to be shared among friends.
Personal and accessible, Dinner at the Long Table brings Tarlow’s keen eye for combining design and taste to a collection of seventeen expansive, inspiring and surprising menus— perfect to celebrate birthdays, mark the coming and going of seasons, or usher in a new year.
It’s food that puts romance and exuberance into eating and cooking, and that recognizes the beauty in the preparation of a meal. It’s earnest, bohemian, honest, playful and always bursting with flavor. In short, the food you most want to eat: A leisurely ragu, followed by fruit and biscotti; paella with tomato toasts, and a Catalan custard; fried calamari sandwiches and panzanella; or a lamb tajine with spiced couscous, pickled carrots and apricots in honey.
Dinner at the Long Table is an invitation into the generous, radiant world that Andrew has created, full of delicious and direct food, friends old and new — and a celebration of a messy, beautiful and rich life. Written with Anna Dunn, the editor in chief of Diner Journal, the cookbook is punctuated with personal anecdotes and photography evoking the simple yet innate human practice of preparing and enjoying food together.
Dinner at the Long Table includes family-style meals that have become a tradition in his home. Written with ANNA DUNN, the editor in chief of the company’s quarterly magazine Diner Journal, the cookbook is organized by occasion and punctuated with personal anecdotes and photography. Much more than just a beautiful cookbook, Dinner at the Long Table is a thematic exploration into cooking, inspiration, and creativity, with a focus on the simple yet innate human practice of preparing and enjoying food together.
_author-andrew-tarlow_credit-adrian-gaut
“Andrew Tarlow’s remarkable success as a restaurateur stems from his fundamental love of cooking – and then sharing what he loves with others. Dinner at the Long Table gives that same gift to home cooks. These are winning recipes, each infused with the warmth and joy that make Andrew Tarlow’s soulful restaurants so compelling and memorable.”-Danny Meyer
Eggplant Gratin
(page 189)
eggplant-gratin
Ingredients:
4 large purple eggplants
Kosher salt
Olive oil
2 small bunches rosemary
1 small bunch thyme
4 or 5 cloves garlic, unpeeled
3 bay leaves
Juice of 1 lemon
2 pounds green beans, trimmed
2 cups cherry tomatoes
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1 bunch basil, leaves picked
Freshly ground black pepper
½ cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
2 cups ricotta cheese, at room temperature
2 cups toasted bread crumbs
1 red chile, such as cayenne or red jalapeño, sliced
1 bunch marjoram, leaves picked
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
Cut the eggplant in half lengthwise. Score the cut sides of the eggplant and sprinkle with salt. Let drain in a colander in the sink for an hour. Preheat the oven to 350°F. In a skillet, cook the eggplant sliced side down in a glug of oil until brown, about 8 minutes, then transfer to a baking sheet.
Scatter the rosemary, thyme, garlic, and bay leaf among the eggplant halves and bake until the eggplant is cooked through, about 30 minutes. Let cool to room temperature, then scoop the eggplant out of its skin. It’s all right if some is mushy and some is firm, hopefully all of it is oily. Discard the rosemary, thyme, garlic, and bay leaves. Season with salt and lemon juice. Turn on your oven’s broiler.
Meanwhile, char the green beans, dry, on a grill or under a broiler until quite black on the outside. If you do it fast and hard, the beans should keep some of their texture, though the outside may have ashy skin. Run a knife through the beans so they’re more or less cut in half, widthwise. Set the green beans aside. Blister the tomatoes in a dry sauté pan under the broiler, then add oil, season with salt and pepper, and cook just until the tomatoes pop, about 5 minutes.
Combine the eggplant, string beans, tomatoes, dried oregano, and basil in a large bowl. Season with salt, pepper, and a bit more oil and fold in the Parmigiano-Reggiano. Taste the eggplant mixture; it should be well seasoned.
To assemble the gratin, spoon the eggplant mixture into a large baking pan or individual gratin dishes. Dollop spoonfuls of ricotta cheese on top and then sprinkle bread crumbs over the whole thing. Bake just until warm and the bread crumbs look good and crusty, about 30 minutes. Sprinkle the sliced chile, picked marjoram, and black pepper over the top. Drizzle with the balsamic vinegar and olive oil to finish. Serve hot, warm, or at room temperature.
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“Andrew’s restaurants are great and I assume these recipes are from there and not some other bad restaurant I don’t enjoy. That would be very odd. I say – purchase this cookbook and quit reading my dumb quote.” -Aziz Ansari
Roasted Leg of Lamb & Potatoes Dressed down with Zest
(page 47)
roasted-leg-of-lamb
If you can roast this lamb on a string over an open flame, then make sure you leave the bone in. For conventional ovens, ask your butcher for two legs of lamb, de-boned. You’ll want all the potatoes to be about the same size. Medium to large fingerling potatoes are perfect for this roast.
Ingredients:
2 boneless legs of lamb
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
12 anchovy fillets
12 cloves garlic, peeled
¼ cup rosemary, minced
5 pounds fingerling potatoes, scrubbed and unpeeled
1 lemon
Season the lamb legs inside and out with salt and pepper. With a large mortar and pestle, pound the anchovies, garlic, and rosemary into a paste. Rub the paste all over the lamb, really massaging it in. Roll up the lamb and secure it with kitchen twine; finally, a chance to practice your knot-tying skills. Cover and refrigerate overnight.
Two hours before dinner, remove the lamb legs from the refrigerator. Preheat the oven to 425°F. Place the potatoes in the bottom of a large roasting pan. Pour the olive oil over the potatoes and season well with salt and pepper. Place the lamb legs on top of the potatoes. Roast for 20 minutes, then lower the heat to 350°F. Continue to roast until the internal temperature is 135°F, 45 to 60 minutes. Remove from the oven, transfer to a platter and let rest for 30 minutes.
After the lamb has rested, pour any juices that have collected on the platter into the roasting pan with the potatoes. Toss to coat the potatoes in the juices, then taste one. If they need more salt, add some now. If they seem dry, add oil and toss to coat. Zest the lemon over the potatoes, then cut the lemon in half and squeeze one half over the potatoes. Toss the potatoes until they are well dressed. Carve the roast into thin slices and serve with the potatoes on the side.
==============================
“I hate to think that my gluttony (which per se is a sin) causes a cascade of other sins such as environmental problems and animal suffering. Tarlow’s food corals my gluttony leaving it just at what it is: a love of eating well.” -Isabella Rossellini
Yellow Tart
(page 56)
Lemon custard tart feels a little like eating sunshine when you’re longing for the summer, conceptual sunshine. Neale Holaday, the pastry chef at Marlow & Sons and Diner, wrote this recipe for us.
yellow tart.jpg Ingredients:
16 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 ⁄2 cup sugar
1 egg
2 3 ⁄4 cups all-purpose flour
1 ⁄4 teaspoon baking powder
1 ⁄4 teaspoon kosher salt
1 sheet silver-strength gelatin
12 egg yolks
2 cups sugar
1 scant cup freshly squeezed lemon juice 1 tablespoon lemon zest
1 ⁄2 teaspoon kosher salt
18 tablespoons unsalted butter, cubed
Silver-strength gelatin acts just like powdered gelatin but dissolves more evenly. If you can’t find it sheeted, powdered is fine. A tablespoon powdered gelatin will equal 3 sheets gelatin.
Preheat the oven to 325°F. To make the tart shell, cream the butter and sugar together in a bowl with an electric mixer until light and fluffy, about 5 minutes. Add the egg and beat until fully combined. Fold in the flour, baking powder, and salt until a dough forms. Turn the dough out onto the counter and form into a ball. Roll the dough between 2 pieces of parchment paper until it’s about ¼ inch thick. Transfer the dough to a 9-inch tart shell. Trim any overhang with a sharp knife and prick the bottom with a fork. Bake until golden brown, 10 to 15 minutes. Let cool while you make the custard.
To make the custard, soak the gelatin in cold water for 5 to 10 minutes to bloom. Prepare an ice bath by filling a large bowl with ice and cold water and set aside. In another bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, sugar, lemon juice, lemon zest, and salt. Transfer the egg yolk mixture to a pot and cook over low heat, whisking constantly, until the mixture thickens and coats the back of a spoon, 3 to 5 minutes. Cut the heat immediately. Wring the gelatin of any excess water and whisk it into the egg yolk mixture along with the butter until the gelatin dissolves and the butter melts. Strain the custard through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl and set the bowl in the ice bath. Stir constantly until the custard cools, then pour into the prepared tart shell. Refrigerate overnight or for at least 1 hour before serving.
Recipes reprinted with permission from Dinner at the Long Table by Andrew Tarlow & Anna Dunn, copyright © 2016. Photography by Michael Graydon & Nikole Herriott. Published by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of Random House LLC
============
Andrew Tarlow will be making appearances in the San Francisco and New York to launch his new book.
long-table-at-penroseThursday, October 6: A Special Menu and Book Signing at Oakland’s Penrose featuring a menu styled after the Brooklyn-based chefs’ recipes.
Details: Reservations start at 5:30 p.m. at Penrose (3311 Grand Ave., Oakland); dining options start at $31. Learn more here.
Friday, October 7: Book signing and conversation at Omnivore Books on Food in San Francisco from 6:30-7:30. Free admission. Details here.
Upcoming New York appearances:
Oct 15, 10:30am-1pm – Anna Dunn and Andrew Tarlow sign books at the Union Square Greenmarket- Free
Dec 7, 7pm – Anna Dunn and Andrew Tarlow in Conversation. 92d Street Y. Details and tickets
We urge you to purchase Dinner at the Long Table at your local independent bookstore but it is also available online from Indiebound and Amazon.
You can request an autographed copy from Omninvore Books on Food in San Francisco.
ANDREW TARLOW -In 1999, Andrew opened his first restaurant, Diner, which serves locally-sourced, New American food inside a refurbished 1927 dining car in the industrial neighborhood of South Williamsburg. Marlow & Sons, a restaurant, oyster bar, and general store, soon followed next door, functioning as a cafe by day and a raw bar and restaurant by night. Other culinary ventures include Marlow & Daughters, a butcher shop specializing in locally sourced grass-fed meat; and Roman’s in Fort Greene, an Italian-inspired restaurant with a three course menu that changes daily. In 2012, Andrew and his partners opened the Wythe Hotel and its ground floor restaurant Reynard in a turn-of-the-century factory building in Williamsburg. He most recently opened Achilles Heel, a riverside watering hole featuring natural wine in Greenpoint. He is publisher of Diner Journal, an independent magazine featuring original art, literature, and recipes. Tarlow grew up in New York and began his career as a painter and a bartender at the Odeon. He now lives in Fort Greene with his wife, designer Kate Huling, and their four children.
Dinner at the Long Table - Andrew Tarlow & Anna Dunn
October 2, 2016 by Jenny | 4 Comments
In Dinner at the Long Table, rambling poetry-like prose, story-telling and delicious food gather together and produce a book that will blow your cookbook-loving minds. Andrew Tarlow, is a rock-star chef in Brooklyn with six restaurants, a hotel, a bar and a bakery, that comprise his empire.
The authors deliver a year's worth of menus in this title that range from the simple, yet stunning, Carrot Cues, with Pistachio & Parsley to an elaborate Rabbit & Chorizo Paella. Beautiful full page photographs fill the book and menus are quaintly named - such as Cold Night Cassoulet or I Love, You Love, We All Love Bluefish. This cookbook is fun, elegant, quirky, sophisiticated and simply beautiful.
I have compiled a list of recipes to make which is not limited to the following examples: The Sweet Corn Arancini sounds wonderful but as this recipe calls for 12 ears of corn (for corn milk) - this dish will have to be put on hold as corn is dwindling here in Colorado. The Hasselback Apple Cake looks comforting while presenting like a showstopper dessert. Olive & Rosemary Focaccia will be made sometime this winter to warm the house with its aroma. The Yellow Tart will bring sunshine to a day dampened by skies of gray. There are such a varied range of recipes that there is something for every level cook.
I appreciate that Tarlow's pastry chef gives options for items we might not be able to procure - such as silver-strength gelatin in The Yellow Tart (recipe below). Best of all, It is refreshing to see a chef admit to having anxiety over a dish - and Tarlow's nemesis is aioli which is why he aptly titled that recipe "I Almost Always Fail".
I made the Drunken Sailor Chocolate Cake because I love rum and I love sailors, not necessarily in that order. Seriously, I made it because it looked wonderful and I had everything on hand to whip it up. Fast, easy and totally decadent -- it will be my go-to dessert that is sure to impress. My son had to have a piece immediately and as usual his declaration was "this is the best cake you have ever made".
Dinner at the Long Table will be one of the best books of 2016. I have no doubt. Special thanks to the authors and Ten Speed Press for allowing us to share The Yellow Tart recipe. We all could use a little sunshine in our kitchens and lives.
The Yellow Tart
Lemon custard tart feels a little like eating sunshine when you're longing for the summer, conceptual sunshine. Neale Holaday, the pastry chef at Marlow & Sons and Diner, wrote this recipe for us.
16 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature
1⁄2 cup sugar
1 egg
2 3⁄4 cups all-purpose flour
1⁄4 teaspoon baking powder
1⁄4 teaspoon kosher salt
1 sheet silver-strength gelatin
12 egg yolks
2 cups sugar
1 scant cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 tablespoon lemon zest
1⁄2 teaspoon kosher salt
18 tablespoons unsalted butter, cubed
Silver-strength gelatin acts just like powdered gelatin but dissolves more evenly. If you can't find it sheeted, powdered is fine. A tablespoon powdered gelatin will equal 3 sheets gelatin.
Preheat the oven to 325°F. To make the tart shell, cream the butter and sugar together in a bowl with an electric mixer until light and fluffy, about 5 minutes. Add the egg and beat until fully combined. Fold in the flour, baking powder, and salt until a dough forms. Turn the dough out onto the counter and form into a ball. Roll the dough between 2 pieces of parchment paper until it's about ¼ inch thick. Transfer the dough to a 9-inch tart shell. Trim any overhang with a sharp knife and prick the bottom with a fork. Bake until golden brown, 10 to 15 minutes. Let cool while you make the custard.
To make the custard, soak the gelatin in cold water for 5 to 10 minutes to bloom. Prepare an ice bath by filling a large bowl with ice and cold water and set aside. In another bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, sugar, lemon juice, lemon zest, and salt. Transfer the egg yolk mixture to a pot and cook over low heat, whisking constantly, until the mixture thickens and coats the back of a spoon, 3 to 5 minutes. Cut the heat immediately. Wring the gelatin of any excess water and whisk it into the egg yolk mixture along with the butter until the gelatin dissolves and the butter melts. Strain the custard through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl and set the bowl in the ice bath. Stir constantly until the custard cools, then pour into the prepared tart shell. Refrigerate overnight or for at least 1 hour before serving.
Reprinted with permission from Dinner at the Long Tableby Andrew Tarlow & Anna Dunn, copyright © 2016. Photography by Michael Graydon & Nikole Herriott. Published by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of Random House LLC.
Photograph of the Drunken Sailor Cake which was tested for this review - Jenny Hartin who is neither a sailor, nor a drunk as of this writing.